Bright colour-pop lips and black liner eyes, I’m jammin’ the 80’s. I’ve asked Malika for a repeat performance. I really like her vibe, with her short hair and boyish airs, she brings a new perspective to makeup looks. Now let’s have some fun!
Model: Malika at Dulcedo Models
Even if I’m in barrels of snow, other parts of the world are still warm, like California, Spain, Africa, Miami… So I’m going to ignore that I’m knee-deep in snow to try out some spring makeup. So let’s move on to the inspo for the shoot. I’m still exploring the 80s ethos of makeup and over the Holidays I’ve been delving into google search and saving to my moodboard some of the best of the 80s.
But beyond the obvious makeup, there was androgyny. Brought on by Bowie and all his Glam Rock “babies”, he fathered in the late 70s. Androgyny is still “trending”. Every generation since Bowie, has been adapting and expanding on that concept. Models, designers, musicians, and taste makers have shape-shifted androgyny into many different terms and visual concepts. From Genderless, to Unisex, to Gender Fluid, to Gender Queer, and now THEM. It’s an idea that won’t be loosing any steam as we keep exploring the huge grey space ( I would say gap) on the spectrum between masculine and feminine.
I’ve also been watching Prince video’s from the 80s and 90s, and I must say he did a lot of work for gender equality. His videos are full of women who own their sexuality, and his lyrics encourage women to “free” themselves sexually and otherwise. He also “managed” a band called Vanity 7 that didn’t really take off. To me, Vanity 7 is not only his vision of women, but also how he would envision himself as a woman (but that is my opinion). One thing is pretty obvious: Prince loved women and everything that was feminine.
Beyond the obvious oozing sexuality in his videos, is the play of gender. He was wearing “women’s” clothing, adorning himself in makeup and shoes with a good heel. He didn’t have to justify it as Bowie did by creating an alien character; he just WAS PRINCE, a human being. He could, after all, he wasn’t gay (or was he). It took another straight guy (after Bowie) to pry open just a bit more the door of gender freedom. In the eye of the public he further detached both ideas, that you could be feminine and not be gay. Whew!
EDWIGE MEETS PRINCE
Another 80s Icon made her way into the shoot: Edwige Belmore, this punk new wave poster child also championed ambiguity with her short, blonde-bleached crop of hair, she was a Parisian, as well as New York darling, beloved by Andy Warhol who had her as one of his muses. Malika has that dead-pan toughness, yet pretty-ness of both of these beautiful beings.
FINDING THE FUN
But what struck me the most was these people were having fun. In contrast to today, where gender issues are becoming quite political, and serious. Aren’t we missing the fun of playing with ambiguity and gender? I miss that fun… I miss all the ambiguously sexy, and the decadence of the being-ness AND the freedom that these two beings exuded in playing with our stuffy ideas of gender and sexuality. I want to explore more and more makeup for everyone, not just girls… so stay tuned for my experiments.
Let Them Wear Makeup (and dress up)!
I decided to jam. I used a new way of lighting and also got this foiled emergency blanket from a Dollar store and got the blue paper background. For the makeup, I almost re-did a heavy makeup eye. But my larger focus was to keep it fresh and modern. I went for a graphic use of black on the eyes, somewhere between pretty and edgy. I used two of the CHANEL Poudres À Lèvres: Rosa Tempera and Rosso Parthenope, one for each look. You can read a full review of these lip powders at THIS LINK. Both are appropriate for a spring look with their cool and bright tones. I didn’t use anything on her brows as I wanted to keep something natural and fresh to offset the lips, eyes, and heavy skin makeup.
All clothing is vintage and was bought at a second hand store.
Foundation, NARS Radiant Velvet Matte Foundation Stick in Stromboli
Concealer, NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Macademia and Vanilla
Highlight, I used a white cream base by Le Maquillage Professionel in shade No.21
Blush, NARS Matte Multipe in Laos
Bronzer, Guerlain Terracotta Sun Trio Bronzing Contour Palette in Deep
Black pencil Liner on lower lash line, M.A.C. Khol Power Pencil in Feline
Cream Liner, Calligraphie de CHANEL in 65Hyperblack *limited edition sooorrrry
Mascara, DIORSHOW Waterproof Iconic Overcurl
Lips, CHANEL Poudres à lèvres, Rosa Tempera & Rosso Parthenope
As eye shadow, CHANEL Poudre À Lèvre in Rosso Pompeiano for the second look
To smoke the liner for the second look, XTreme Black from the Mothership palettes by Pat McGrath Labs